Reverse / Parallel Parking

Reverse parking is a convenient way of parking into a space usually only big enough for 1-2 cars and where driving forward would not always be ideal.

Throughout the manoeuvre keep watch for other road users ie. cars/bikes/any vehicle coming close to you. Be carefull of pedestrians around you as you park into the space. Examiner will expect you to WAIT while activity is close-and only re-start when the way is CLEAR.

If another car should approach from the front as you are in the middle of your manoeuvre-stop-make eye contact with the driver ahead to establish their intentions. If the other car starts to move off-wait and carry on after they have gone. If a car approaches from the rear-follow the same procedure-and check what the other car is doing.

Sometimes other cars will sit and wait for you; if so , carry on and complete the exercise, making sure to check all around for other road users.

The examiner will be looking to see that you:- Have control of your vehicle, take effective observations and remain accurate throughout.

1. Drive along side your chosen car to to reverse behind. Try not to park too close, 1 metre is fine, and be carefull not to stop too far away from the vehicle (this will only give you more work!) stop , handbrake on only if you need it.

2. Select reverse gear and find the 'bite'-make all round observations in mirrors and over your right shoulder-if the way is clear look out over your LEFT shoulder out the back window and release the handbrake-start reversing back STRAIGHT until the back of your car is in line with the back of your chosen vehicle-then turn once to the left. Your car will now be slowly coming into the space behind.

Keep clutch control throughout the manoeuvre by holding the clutch at the bite & just below

3. When the wheel arch of YOUR car is about to touch the kerbside-turn full lock to the right-you will now be coming into the space directly behind the chosen vehicle and SHOULD be approx 1 foot away from the kerb. Handbrake on, into neutral.

4. You are now in a position to move away safely from the side of the road with the wheel already in position for turning out Remember- the examiner is not looking for perfection-but will be looking for you to maintain a slow steady pace throughout the manoeuvre, checking all around you & making sure you are reasonalbly close to the kerb.

If you 'go wrong' somewhere, you can 'shunt forward' and start again. The examiner shouldn't mind this, but remember its a test-not a lesson. If you need to correct your position you are allowed to move forward and backwards to get it right. But too much will be frowned upon by the Examiner.

Bay Parking

There are several ways to park a vehicle in a Marked Parking Bay.

1 Parallel Park to the right and left.
2 Reversing Angle Park to the right and left

Parallel Park to the right into a marked bay.

Please refer to Fig 1 below.

As he/she entered the parking area the driver of the blue car has identified the bay he is going to back into. It is the one before the two yellow cars. He calls that number 3.

He makes sure he is a least a cars width away from the line of bays and comes to a stop just beyond bay number 1, all the time looking out for anything moving .

All round observation and then he reverses straight until his shoulder is in line with the centre of bay No1. Shown by the thin arrow on the diagram (This position can be adjusted forwards or backwards subsequently to fine tune the manoeuvre and it depends upon the length of the vehicle).

The back wheel is now level with the nearest line (shown in red) of the bay next to the one being reversed into. Fig 1.

This is the steering point. All-round observation again and then as the car begins to move he appies the right steering lock quickly. Keeps the clutch low and the car slow.

Half way around he stops. Checks all around for pedestrians cyclists and other vehicles. Checks both door mirrors for the bay lines. He will be able to see the line on the right but possibly not the left at this stage.

Continues reversing slowly for another few feet and stops again. Checks all round and the mirrors. He should be able to see both lines at this point.

Steers quickly and briefly away from the line closest to the vehicle if necessary and as soon as the distance between vehicle and lines is the same in both mirrors straightens the wheels quickly.

He keeps the vehicle at a creeping pace all the time. He now watches carefully for the moment when the vehicle is parallel with the lines and straightens up immediately.

Pauses, checks all round - especially through the back window and reverses into the bay.

To avoid striking the kerb at the rear he watches over his right shoulder and using the door mirror stops the vehicle a few inches from the kerb.

On the driving test it is essential to avoid going into the bay over one of the lines. If you judge that this might happen, stop before entering the bay, pull forward adjusting the vehicles position and then checking the door mirrors for accuracy, reverse into the bay as above.

Parallel Park to the left into a marked bay.

The method here is the same as for the right reverse with the obvious exception that once lined up with No 1 the left steering lock is applied.

The left door mirror is useful here because it will show a full view of the bay being backed into once the half way point has been reached

This method is especially useful for drivers who cannot see the bay they are reversing into once they have positioned next to bay No 1.

Angled Reverse to the right into a marked bay.

Please refer to Fig 2 Below

This time the driver of the blue car has decided to perform an angled reverse into a bay on the right. The reason he has chosen this method is because there is no room to do the 123 method outlined above.

As he enters the area he checks his mirrors and keeps very close to the right, about a metre away from the cars on the right. He keeps an eye out for reversing lights and people coming out of bays.

As the nose of the vehicle lines up with the centre of the bay (red star) he is going to back into,( position ‘A’ on the diagram), he pauses and checks his left door mirror and blind spot.

Keeping the car slow he applies the left lock and carefully moves into position ‘B’ applying the right lock just as he stops. An all round check and then a position check in the door mirrors. He should be able to see both lines that he is going to reverse between.

His vehicle is at an angle but it is easily adjusted as he checks all round again and then slowly backs into the bay finishing as for the other methods.

To perform this manoeuvre to the left the process is the same except that the approach is along the front of the bays on the left until level with the bay to be reversed into.

Key points:

Observation - Plenty of it – look before you leap, and watch out for other car park users either in their vehicles or on foot Control - Keep it slow with plenty of clutch control, little or no gas and the brake covered towards the back of the bay. Accuracy - Steer quickly when applying the locks and straightening up. Be prepared to do quick, effective and short adjustments.

Good luck.

Theory Test - From Jan 2012

From 1st January 2012, the Driving Standards Agency is making changes to the UK driving Theory Test. From this date onwards, the DSA will add new multiple-choice Theory Test questions to the test. The DSA will not let anyone publish these new Theory Test questions, so they will not appear in any product, nor on any website. However, the DSA will continue to release official DSA Theory Test revision questions, and these will be published in all Driving Test Success products.

What’s the difference between DSA revision questions and the “real” Theory Test questions?

Simply that the “real” DSA Theory Test questions will, from 1st January 2012, start to include new questions that will not be published.

How many official DSA revision questions are published in Driving Test Success All Tests?

It depends on which vehicle licence is being applied for, but approximately 1,000 Theory Test questions.

So if a pupil takes a test before 1st January 2012, the revision questions in Driving Test Success will be the same as the ones I’ll be asked in the Theory Test?

Yes they will. The DSA will only start introducing new, unpublished questions from 1st January 2012.

Is the second part of the Theory Test, the Hazard Perception Test, changing too?

No, the Hazard Perception Test will not change at all. You should use a revision aid that accurately and interactively simulates the DSA Hazard Perception Test, such as Driving Test Success from Focus Multimedia.

Will the DSA be adding more Theory Test questions from 1st January 2012?

No, the structure of the Theory Test isn’t changing. For car drivers there will still be 50 multiple choice Theory Test questions, including 5 case study questions, and then Part Two consists of 14 Hazard Perception Test questions.

Why is the DSA changing the Theory Test?

The DSA has decided, after taking advice from organisations including UK driving schools, that it wants to discourage learners from “learning by rote“. This will, the DSA feels, lead to a better understanding of the actual study materials, in particular the Highway Code.

Do I need to get any practice for the new 2012 Theory Test?

Yes, it’s as important as ever to get plenty of practice before sitting the driving Theory Test. In fact, very little will change when it comes to preparing for the new 2012 Theory Test. We recommend that as a candidate you should:

• Study the Highway Code and gain a thorough understanding of it. A digital version of the Highway Code is included in all Driving Test Success products.
• Use a reliable, up-to-date Theory Test practice tool like Driving Test Success All Tests (available for PC and DVD) or Driving Test Success Online. Focus Multimedia’s revision aids closely mirror the real DSA test, providing you with a chance to answer revision questions under realistic exam conditions. They also include the official DSA “knowledge and understanding” text, which offers explanations of the answers. By getting plenty of practice with Driving Test Success, a learner will understand how the test works, become more familiar with the kind of questions that will be asked, and have a better understanding of the subject matter.
• Try the interactive sample case study questions included with Driving Test Success. You will still be asked 5 case study questions as part of your Theory Test multiple choice element, so it’s important to understand how this section is structured.
• Attempt as many interactive Hazard Perception Test video questions as possible, to prepare for the second part of the Theory Test. Driving Test Success products contain a huge amount of interactive Hazard Perception video clips.

Left Reverse Around A Corner

What the driving test (dsa) requires:

You should be able to reverse your car...

Smoothly

Correctly

Safely

Under full control

With due regard for all other road users

How the examiner will test you:

Your examiner will normally

ask you to pull up just before a side road on the left
point out the side road and ask you to reverse into it
As you drive past the selected side road, check for any obstructions or children playing that could make your manoeuvre unsafe. Also look to see how sharp the corner you will be reversing around is.

Using MSM drive past the corner and stop about 2 car lengths from it and about a foot from the kerb. The sharper the corner the further out you will need to be. Apply the handbrake and select neutral. Make sure if you needed to signal to pull in you do so as you drive past the corner, otherwise, signal too early and other road users could become confused and think you are turning in.

Turn slightly in your seat to make control easier, you may remove your seatbelt if you feel restricted but you must remember to put it back on before you drive off!

Assess the position of your vehicle in relation to the kerb through the rear window. This is the approximate position you need to end up with when you have finished reversing.

Select reverse gear, set the gas to a steady hum then bring the clutch pedal to biting point and check all around. Keep the clutch pedal at, or near the biting point for the duration of the manoeuvre depending on the incline of the road. Keep the vehicle moving slowly by making proper use of the clutch brake and accelerator pedal. The combination of the controls will depends on the slope of the road if any.

You must be looking out of the rear window as you take the handbrake off. (Having done all round observations) Begin moving slowly back until the rear wheels are level with the corner. You can use quick glances in the nearside door mirror to check on your position throughout the manoeuvre.

At this point pause for a moment to have a good look around for other road users as the front of your car is about to swing out into the road, at this point you will present the greatest hazard to others. So ensure you check your right blindspot lastly before you move again to start the turn. Wait until you will not cause other road users to slow down, stop or swerve before you complete your turn around the corner itself.

As a general guide you should be able to follow the kerb as it disappears from view in the back window and reappears in the side window. The amount of steering required will depends on how sharp the corner is Generally ¾ of a turn to one turn on the wheel should suffice.

If your manoeuvre is going to affect other road users remember they have priority. Let them make the decision to proceed or wait for you to complete your manoeuvre if they are appearing behind you as you reverse into the junction. Do not panic and put the car into first trying to rush around the corner again and out of the way. The other road user may pull around you and use the junction so wait until their intention is clear before you proceed to either wait for them to go around you, if they wait behind you there may be little choice other than to go back round to your starting position.

Keep checking all around as you complete the manoeuvre, keep steering to the left until you see that the car is straight in the new road. Keep looking well down the road through the middle of the rear window. This will help you judge whether the car is parellel with the kerb. Glance in your nearside door mirror before you stop to check you are happy with your finish position.

Make sure you finish your reverse in a safe place about 2 to 3 car lengths from the junction to allow other road users to use it safely.

Remember:
Keep on the lookout all the time for other road users particularly pedestrians about to cross behind your car and vehicles approaching from any direction. If a pedestrian is walking near the junction stop and wait for them to reach safety on the other side before you continue moving.

Faults to avoid:

You shouldn’t...

mount the kerb
swing out wide
reverse too far from the kerb
be inconsiderate to other road users
take more than a reasonable time to complete the manoeuvre, creating a hazard for other road users
steer harshly while the car is stationary

Turn In The Road

(Turn In The Road - AKA 3-point turn)

In this manoevure, you turn the vehicle around, using forward and reverse gears, so that it ends up facing the opposite way down the road. You would usually use this manoevure when no convenient side road is available to reverse into.

Before starting you should select a suitable place - it should not cause too much inconvience to other road users, so avoid busy high streets! Make sure that it is legal so don't do it in a one-way street for example. You should also make sure that you have sufficient room to carry out the manoevure, and that there are no obstructions on the road (ie. parked cars) or on the pavement (ie. trees,lamposts, etc.). Finally be sure that it is safe and that you have a clearview up and down the road for a good distance.

The key to carrying out this manoevure successfully is to keep the car moving slowly (using good clutch control), at walking speed or less, but to steer briskly. You should also be aware that some roads have a camber (they bow up in the middle) which will require preparing for a hill start when moving off, and dipping the clutch whilst controlling speed with the footbrake as you approach the kerb. Thorough observation should be carried out throughout the manoevure, and the car should be stopped before approaching vehicles arrive until they have either passed or you are certain that they will wait. The manoevure will be carried out in 3 or more phases:

1.You should start the manoevure on the left, reasonably close to the kerb as if parked. Put the car into 1st gear and prepare the car to move, you should then perform a 6-point observational check (left blind-spot and door mirror, road ahead, rear-view mirror, right door mirror and right blind-spot) and when it is clear with no approaching vehicles or pedestrians move slowly forward whilst steering briskly to the right as far as the wheel will turn. As the car approaches the opposite kerb slow it down, steer a bit to the left just before stopping near the kerb.

2.Engage the handbrake, then reverse gear, prepare the car to move and carry out a 6-point check as before, when safe start reversing looking out the rear window over your left shoulder whilst steering all the way to the left, about halfway across the road look over your right shoulder to see the approaching kerb, just before reaching the kerb steer right a bit and stop.

3.Finally, engage the handbrake and first gear, prepare the car, 6-point check and move off when safe, steering to the right and continue down the road. If it is not possible to continue without hitting the kerb, stop just before the kerb having steered left and repeat phases 2 & 3 above.

Overtaking

You need to be looking regularly into your far distance to identify early enough that an overtaking manoeuvre is necessary. Your forward planning skills are of foremost importance here. You need to realise that you are going to overtake a vehicle early enough that you can do the mirrors, signal, wait for a gap and if there isn't one, still have enough space left to reduce speed to match that of the vehicle in front and still maintain a two-second gap! The farther ahead that you see slower vehicles the better.

An overtaking manoeuvre is basically two lane changes. One to move safely into the overtaking lane and one to move back into the first driving lane once you have passed the slower (or stationary) vehicle.

When moving out to overtake, a signal is always necessary for the vehicle that you are going to overtake, whereas when you are past it and move back in, an indication is only necessary if there is a vehicle in the overtaking lane behind you(if you are on a dual carriageway), or of you feel that a vehicle in front would benefit from the signal. It is not necessary for the vehicle that you have overtaken because they are expecting you to move back in to the left once you have gone past them.

If there is a sign for a right turn ahead of you always make sure that you check the other cars indicators before and as you start to move out. They sometimes don't indicate until they see you begin to move out. If you don't check then a near miss situation is on the cards.

Once you are past a slower vehicle you need to know how far to go before moving back in again. As a good guide for safety it is recommended that you do not consider returning to the inside lane until you can see the full width of the overtaken vehicle in your central mirror. This will give you a safe gap without cutting in across their bonnet.

Remember:- A good driver is basically one who makes well informed decisions

ADEQUATE CLEARANCE

While you are driving you should at all times maintain safe separation distances between yourself, hazards and any other road users. Below are a few rules that will help you to know what distance you should be looking for in each circumstance.

Tyres and tarmac.

When it is necessary to pull up behind a stationary vehicle in traffic, for example at traffic lights, you should make sure that when you stop you can see where the tyres of the vehicle in front touch the road and a little tarmac behind them.

There are at least two good reasons for this.

1. If you stop behind another vehicle on a hill and the driver of the vehicle ahead does not take a suitable biting point then they could easily role back into you.
2. If the car ahead of you does not move off for any reason and the vehicle behind is really close, as they usually are, it is comforting to know that you can move off without having to wait for others to reverse foryou.
You need to remember that the tyres and tarmac gap is an absolute minimum and therefore not something to be aimed at. You should aim to pull up before the point of tyres and tarmac.

Door width.

When passing a stationary vehicle you need to maintain a safe distance from that vehicle. An accident that may occur is that the driver/passenger opens a door right there in front of you without looking and gets it ripped off, Ouch. Make sure that as you pass stationary vehicles that this will not happen.

Middle of the available gap.

If you are on a road that has stationary vehicles on both sides then you may be thinking that leaving a door opening width from the vehicle on the left is a good idea. It is as long as this gap does not leave you any closer to the vehicles on the right than those on the left. If this would be the case then go through the middle of the available gap. Remember to slow down. With that many vehicles parked there are innumerable places that unseen pedestrians may come from.

Pedestrian Crossings

Pelican Crossings

Pelican crossings are traffic light controlled and will only change if someone presses the button, which is located on the side of the traffic light pole. Where as normal traffic lights will change on an automatic sequence when the button is pressed, the Pelican crossing traffic lights will change to allow Pedestrians to cross safely. The name derives from PEdestrian LIght CONtrolled with the o changed to an a in reference to the bird.

Sequence of Lights for a Pelican Crossing.

The sequence of lights for a pelican crossing would be as follows: Red, Flashing Amber Green. Steady Amber Red. All of the different coloured lights appear on their own.The flashing amber light keeps the traffic flowing. If the crossing is clear you may proceed. However, if there are pedestrians still on the crossing, you must still give way to them. Unlike a traffic light, which would have the following sequence. Normal Traffic Light Sequence is; Red, Red and Steady Amber, Green, Steady Amber, Red .


Approaching a Pelican Crossing

Let's imagine we're approaching a pelican crossing and the lights go through their sequence from Green up to Red. Green, Steady amber, Red.
Use your MSM routine in good time and slow down to let the pedestrians cross safely to the other side of the road. Remembering not to "rev" your engine while you wait for them to cross, as this could cause the pedestrians to hurry across the road. The crossing is clear and the flashing amber light appears, you may proceed. However, ensure that the pedestrian doesn't change their mind and double back across the crossing! When approaching a pelican crossing and the Pelican has just changed from Red to the flashing amber, keep checking to see that the crossing is clear before committing your self to driving through the crossing. Pedestrians such as the young, elderly or the infirm may take longer to cross the road and may still be on the crossing even when the lights have changed to Green. Like the Zebra Crossing, the Pelican Crossing has two variations:

The Straight Crossing.
The Staggered Crossing.

The Straight Crossing

As we can see in the diagram, the crossing goes straight across the road and has no central island. This type of crossing should be seen as one crossing. Unlike a Zebra Crossing, which would be classed as two separate crossings when it has a central island.

The Staggered Crossing

This type of Pelican crossing incorporates a central island, but either side of the crossing are not in line. This type of Pelican Crossing would be classed as being two separate crossings. As the lights on either side of the road will work independently of each other.

Pelican crossings will only change if someone has pressed the button. However, be careful when approaching a Pelican crossing as there maybe no one around as you approach the crossing but someone may have pressed the button and crossed before the lights have changed. Never trust a Green light, as they have a habit of changing colour when you least expect it! Always approach Green traffic lights with caution and never try to beat the lights by accelerating towards them.

Puffin Crossings

The Puffin crossing is another variation on the Toucan crossing in that it incorporates an electronic scanner to monitor the crossing.

Puffin stands for Pedestrian User Friendly Intelligent crossing.

The electronic scanner scans the crossing to see if anyone is standing next to or is already on the crossing. This facility helps to keep the flow of traffic moving by keeping the lights on Green, if someone presses the button and either walks away or crosses the road before the lights have changed to Red. On the other hand if the pedestrians cross the road fairly quickly, the lights will change to Green and again this should minimize the disruption to the flow of traffic. Whereas a Pelican crossing has a set Red light sequence.

By the same token, the scanner will keep the lights on Red as long as someone is still crossing the road. This is a useful facility for certain types of pedestrians such as the elderly, the young and the infirm, who may need more time to cross the road. Because the Puffin has this functionality, there is no flashing amber in the sequence of lights.

Zig Zag Lines Zig zag lines are placed before and after the crossing to protect the crossing. See the Zebra crossing tutorial for the rules about Zig Zag lines.
Zig zag lines are used on the following crossings:

Pelican Crossing

 Toucan-Pelican-Puffin.

It's also a good idea not to park just before or just after the crossing, as this could obscure the view of both drivers and pedestrians. The important point to remember when approaching any pedestrian crossing is to approach caution and scan either side of the crossing for pedestrians who are either walking up to or are waiting at the side of the road to use the crossing. Your speed on the approach to the crossing should be such that you can pull up safely and under full control.

Never "rev" your engine when pedestrians are on the crossing, as this could frighten them and cause the pedestrians to hurry across the road.

Toucan Crossings

The Toucan crossing is a crossing that allows pedestrians and cyclists to use the crossing at the same time.

If a cyclist wishes to use any other type of crossing, for example, Zebra, Pelican or Puffin, they should dismount from their bicycle and then use the crossing. However, on a Toucan crossing, a cyclist can ride across the crossing as pedestrians are walking to the other side of the road. "Tou-can cross" is one way of remembering what a Toucan crossing is for. Pedestrians and cyclists can use the crossing together.

As with the other crossings, the Toucan crossing incorporates zig zag lines to protect the crossing.

As with all of the traffic light controlled crossings, the lights are controlled by the push buttons on the side of the traffic light pole. However, for this type of crossing there is no flashing amber light.






Let's suppose someone presses the button and then walks away without using the crossing, the scanner would detect that no one is standing next to the crossing and therefore will keep the traffic lights on Green and this helps to keep the traffic flowing.

Another advantage of using the electronic scanner is that unlike a Pelican crossing, the Toucan crossing will keep the lights on Red if someone is still on the crossing, which gives the pedestrian plenty of time to cross the road without the worry of the lights suddenly changing. This is especially useful to the elderly, the young and the infirm. Whereas a pelican crossing has a set time for the lights to stay on Red. Once the time limit is up the traffic lights will work their way down to Green.

Steven...

A Safe Gap - The Two Second Rule

A Safe Gap

Many accidents on the roads are caused by drivers travelling too close to the vehicle in front, this is known as 'tailgating'. This is a particularly dangerous thing to do and is the cause of many multiple collisions because drivers are unable to brake in time within the distance they have left clear. In the picture below, car 1 is tailgating behind a lorry which he cannot possibly see around. Not only this, but also the driver of the lorry cannot see him in his mirrors and therefore will not know the necessary action to take to avoid a collision.
The red and blue areas show the zone of vision of driver 1 and driver 2 which is obscured by the lorry ahead. You can see how much more of the road ahead car 2 can see and how much more stopping distance he has compared to car 1.

If you keep your distance and look well ahead, giving yourself plenty of time to react, accidents like these can be avoided. You should always leave a gap of at least one metre for each mph of your speed, or use the two-second rule. If the vehicle travelling behind you is not keeping a safe gap then you should ease off to increase the gap between you and the vehicle in front.

The Two Second Rule
 
When driving in good dry conditions an observant driver needs to be at least two seconds from the car in front. This is also considering the vehicle has first class tyres and brakes. If road conditions are bad then the safety gap needs to be doubled to at least four seconds or more.
To measure a two-second gap you should choose a stationary point ahead, such as a road sign, lamp-post, etc., When the vehicle in front reaches this point say the phrase 'only a fool breaks the two-second rule'. If you are passing the same point before you finish saying the phrase then you are too close and should ease off your speed to increase the gap.

(If you cant remember or just dont understand the 2 second rule, make sure that while driving at 50/60/70 miles per hour, you can NOT read the number plate of the vehicle in front of you)

Steven....

Braking Distances

Stopping distance:

This is the distance your vehicle travels from the moment you realise you must brake to the moment the vehicle actually stops.

You will need to leave enough space between you and the vehicle infront so you can pull up safely if it should slow down or stop suddenly.

To do this you need to be able to judge your OVERALL stopping distance.

Stopping distances depend on:

* How fast you're going

* Whether you're travelling uphill or downhill or on the level

* The weather and the condition of the road itself

* The condition of your brakes and tyres (so make sure these are well maintained!)

* Your ability as a driver, particularly your reaction times when applying the brakes.

Your Overall Stopping distance divides into

* Thinking distance

* Braking distance

Thinking Distance this depends how quickly you react. If you are tired or unwell your reaction times will be slowed to some extent, and if you are on certain medications so check with you doctor before driving.

For example if you're driving at 20mph you'll travel 6 metres(20feet) before you even begin to brake. So thats 6 metres before your brakes even begin to work!

Braking Distance
This depends greatly on the speed of your vehicle and the size and weight of it. It has even more effect on your overall stopping distance.

At 20mph good brakes on a good dry road surface will stop your vehicle in about 6 metres(20 feet) So remember, this is ONLY the braking distance, we now need to add the time on that it will take us to get to the brakes in the first place ,the Thinking Distance.

As you can see above it has taken us 6 metres (20 feet) just to get to the brakes(thinking distance) so we need to add that on to our Braking distance to get the overall stopping distance.

The total will be 12 metres or 40 feet to stop at 20mph on a good road, remember if our reaction times are not top notch or our tyres or brakes are not in top condition this total will be more!

Overall stopping distances

20 mph it takes 12m (40ft)

30 mph it takes 23m (75ft)

40 mph it takes 36m (120ft)

50 mph it takes 53m(175ft)

60 mph it takes 73m (240ft)

70 mph it takes 96m (315ft)

Allow much more time and room to brake in bad weather. Your tyres won't grip the road surface so well in wet weather or on loose road surfaces.

You need to have thought about this before you find yourself needing to brake suddenly! So pay attention to the road surface and weather conditions. Try to avoid driving if you are tired or unwell due to reaction times being slower.

An easy way to figure out your actual braking distance in feet is by knowing that whatever speed you're doing your Thinking distance will be that in feet.

So if youre doing 30 mph your thinking distance will be 30 ft. Once you've learnt your overall stopping distances in feet just deduct your speed in feet from your overall stopping distance. This leaves you with the actual braking distance.

At 30mph the overall stopping distance is 75 ft. So we will deduct 30 feet for our thinking distance from our overall stopping distance which leaves 45 ft. That must be our braking distance.

At 40mph our overall stopping distance in feet is 120ft. We need to deduct 40ft for our thinking distance which leaves 80ft. That must be our braking distance and so on.

Steven....

Roundabouts

Purpose :Roundabouts are designed to keep the flow of traffic moving where a number of roads merge and cross.

Key points:

MSPSL on approach: Always look well ahead for warning signs, road signs and markings to help you plan your approach, ensuring you are giving a signal (where necessary), in the correct position and are at the appropriate speed in good time.
Priority: Normally priority is given to traffic approaching from the right, however, always check for signs and markings on the roundabout.

Procedure: Once you have entered the roundabout, it is important to follow the correct procedure to negotiate it safely whilst giving due regard to other road users.

Dealing with Roundabouts:

Turning left : (White car) Check mirrors, signal left and approach in the left-hand lane. Maintain a left lane position on the roundabout keeping your signal on until you have taken your exit.

Following the road ahead: (red car)Check mirrors - no signal required on approach - position in the left-hand lane unless blocked or signs or markings dictate otherwise, if so use the next lane to it. (yellow car). Maintain the chosen lane position through the roundabout. Check mirros and give a left signal to show your intention to exit the roundabout.

Turning right: (blue car) Check mirrors, signal right and approach in the right-hand lane. Continue in the right-hand lane and maintain your signal. As you approach the centre point of the exit before the one you wish to take, check your mirrors and give a left signal to show your intention to exit the roundabout in good time.

Please note that the same procedure is adopted when turning full circle at a roundabout.

Steven...

BOX JUNCTIONS

Box junctions are seen by many drivers, not just new drivers as something to fear and if possible to be avoided. This needn't be the case when you understand the concept and the procedures involved with this type of junction.

What Do Box Junctions Look Like?

As you can see from the diagram a box junction is easily recognizable by its distinctive yellow crisscross road markings.

Where Would You Find a Box Junction?

Box junctions are normally used on large busy junctions such as traffic light controlled crossroads, T-Junctions and even roundabouts. Anywhere in fact where there is a possibility the flow of traffic could be restricted by traffic wishing to meet and cross one another. The diagram illustrates a large crossroads that incorporates a box junction.

Why Do We Need Box Junctions?

Box junctions make it possible to keep the flow of traffic moving and therefore keep the junction clear, by preventing traffic from stopping in the path of crossing traffic.

How Do We Use Box junctions?

Follow these simple steps and you can't go wrong. Do not enter a box junction unless your exit lane is clear. You may enter the box junction if you wish to turn right and your path is blocked by oncoming traffic. Use the Mirror, Signal, Manoeuvre routine early and this will give you time to assess the junction before you get there. Remember, speed on approach is everything!

Box junctions shouldn't be feared. If anything they make life easier. Like everything else when learning to drive, keep practising.

Steven...

Adequate Clearance

While you are driving you should at all times maintain safe separation distances between yourself, hazards and any other road users. Below are a few rules that will help you to know what distance you should be looking for in each circumstance.

Tyres and tarmac.

When it is necessary to pull up behind a stationary vehicle in traffic, for example at traffic lights, you should make sure that when you stop you can see where the tyres of the vehicle in front touch the road and a little tarmac behind them.

There are at least two good reasons for this.

1. If you stop behind another vehicle on a hill and the driver of the vehicle ahead does not take a suitable biting point then they could easily role back into you.
2. If the car ahead of you does not move off for any reason and the vehicle behind is really close, as they usually are, it is comforting to know that you can move off without having to wait for others to reverse foryou.
You need to remember that the tyres and tarmac gap is an absolute minimum and therefore not something to be aimed at. You should aim to pull up before the point of tyres and tarmac.

Door width.

When passing a stationary vehicle you need to maintain a safe distance from that vehicle. An accident that may occur is that the driver/passenger opens a door right there in front of you without looking and gets it ripped off, Ouch. Make sure that as you pass stationary vehicles that this will not happen.


Middle of the available gap.

If you are on a road that has stationary vehicles on both sides then you may be thinking that leaving a door opening width from the vehicle on the left is a good idea. It is as long as this gap does not leave you any closer to the vehicles on the right than those on the left. If this would be the case then go through the middle of the available gap. Remember to slow down. With that many vehicles parked there are innumerable places that unseen pedestrians may come from.

Meeting On-Commimg Traffic

A meet situation occurs when you need to use the same piece of road at the same time as the oncoming traffic. This is quite a common occurrence in built up areas. It also happens on narrow country lanes where hopefully there will be passing places, but this is not always the case.
Before this can be done, you need to know about the holdback position.


Holdback position.

The holdback position is ideally two car lengths back from the stationary vehicle and in a right turn position by the white line.
I say ideally because it may not always be possible; for example if there are cars parked opposite and you stop by the white line the oncoming traffic may not even be able to get through.

You will benefit from stopping two car lengths back from the hazard because it is easier for you to steer around it when you do move away. You stop by the white line (or as far towards it as is practical) so that you are securing for yourself the best possible viewpoint down the road ahead.

Oncoming traffic.

The priority in this situation is decided by on whose side of the road the stationary hazard is and how much clearance is available.. Not by who gets there first or whether or not you think that you will fit through the gap. You should always be prepared to give way for the sake of safety. If it is your priority and the oncoming vehicle is being driven by an inconsiderate person, then give way to them. Pride does not hurt as much as a crash!

By using effective observations you will have spotted the meet situation early. The procedure for tackling it safely is as follows :-

Mirrors. Full set of mirror checks on approach.

Decide if you need to stop. If you spot the situation early enough you will be able to avoid it by slowing down in advance. This allows the oncoming vehicle to pass therefore leaving you with a simple stationary hazard to pass.

Stop if necessary in the Holdback position.
Decide when to move off. You do not want to be sitting in neutral not having done any preparation or checks when the time comes to move away. If you can spot the time early you can be ready.

A few seconds before you think you will be moving off prepare the car by selecting first gear and setting the gas and biting point.

As the last vehicle is approaching you check your central and right mirrors and indicate if necessary (if there is anything behind you whether stationary or moving).

You will be ready now to move away at the soonest convenient time.
Pass the hazard with suitable clearance.
Perform a full set of mirror checks and follow the road ahead.

Road works.

Road works are another area of hazards that do not get enough coverage in the syllabus. You will find them generally speaking wherever you go and there are various different types of traffic control depending upon the size of the road works themselves.

Just cones.

This would only be acceptable where there is encroachment into the road by the workers but not a serious interruption to traffic. You would deal with this in exactly the same manner that you would deal with any other stationary hazard as detailed above. The cones are on your side of the road so you are the one that has to be prepared to give way.

Worker with a stop & go pole.

There is usually only one of them but at larger road works there are sometimes two who will be in contact by walkie talkie. Simply follow the instruction on the pole and do not creep as close as you can get. As you approach the works you may see a sign saying something like "waiting traffic stop here". Use the holdback position but instead of basing it on the first cone, base it on the 'stop here' sign. If there is no sign make sure that you leave a larger space than two car lengths. The point is that an articulated lorry may need to manoeuvre slightly to get around the last part of the works and they do require a lot of room.

Temporary traffic lights.

On approach you will see a red and white sign before the lights saying "when red light shows stop here". The best advice would be to stay back a couple of car lengths just in case. Don't forget to check your mirrors and perform a shoulder check just before you move away. It is easy for a motorbike or cyclist to move up on either side without you hearing it.

Country lanes.

Passing on country lanes can be a pain if not done properly.

If there are no passing places then you will need to keep a check as you drive along on where the last place was that you came by that you could reverse to if it became necessary. If there is an oncoming vehicle and there is not enough space to pass then one of you will have to reverse. There is no way of saying who it should be but good manners dictates that if you know that there is somewhere suitable reasonably near to you that you should reverse to it. Otherwise you will just sit there staring at the other driver.

Sometimes it is possible to pass in tight circumstance if you are both prepared to put two wheels off the road. Be sensible when doing this though. If the surface at the side of the road looks too soft don't do it else you might not be able to get back on again.

Passing places.

A passing place looks like a small lay-by and they are usually to be found at regular intervals on a narrow road. They may be on either side of the road or they may alternate depending upon the area available. As long as everyone knows the correct way to use them it is not a problem.

On your left.

If there is an oncoming vehicle and you get to the passing place first you should pull into it to allow the oncoming vehicle to pass. If the other vehicle gets there first then they should stop before it to allow you to pull into it.
.
On your right.

If there is an oncoming vehicle and you get to the passing place first you should stop before it to allow the other vehicle to pull into it. If they get there first they should pull in to allow you to pass.

You only use the passing places on your left.

Approaching Junctions

The key to dealing with all junctions safely is the Mirror Signal Maneuver routine. When you first see the junction you should check the mirrors to assess the speed and position of following traffic. Look for the speed, type and density of traffic on the road you are joining, the width and gradient of the road and the presence of other road users, particularly pedestrians. Look out for other road users ahead of you in your own road and in the road you will be joining.

Turning Left
You must decide whether a signal is necessary and if it is, when you should give it. Unless road markings and signs clearly indicate that you can only turn one way, in a filter lane for example, you should give a signal. Timing the signal is important. If you give your signal too soon, another road user may think you intend to stop or turn into property bordering the road. If there are side roads before the junction at which you will be turning, particularly care in the timing of signals is needed. After giving your left signal we then come on to the manoeuvre part of the MSM routine. A manoeuvre can be broken down into position, speed and look.. So MSM becomes Mirrors Signal Position Speed (Gear) Look.

Position
You need to make sure you are positioned correctly. For a left turn it may not be necessary to adjust position since we want to be about a meter from the kerb to take the corner, which is normal road position. If you do need to change course slightly, first check your exterior mirror in the direction you intend to move.

Speed
Once in position you will need to adjust your speed. Ease off the gas pedal to begin with, but use the footbrake in good time so that following traffic has enough time to react to your stop light signals. You should not slow down too soon. Apart from frustrating following drivers, they may be tempted to overtake you, which would be dangerous with a junction ahead. As you get nearer to the junction, you may need to change gear to give you better control of the car.

The speed at which you approach the junction and the gear you select will depend on what you can see and the angle through which you need to turn. Second gear is the most versatile and may suffice for most junctions, but you may select first gear if the angle of your turn into the new road is very shallow. Whichever gear you select, remember it is acceptable and just as safe to miss out a gear on approach. You do not need to change through the gears in order. Whichever gear you select, make sure you actually use it! You must not "coast" around the corner with the clutch down. Coasting reduces your control of both braking and steering. When making the turn, the engine should drive your car. This means that you should have enough gas set to be just pulling the car around the corner.

Look
Take particular care with cyclists. If you see a cyclist on approach, hang back until you are sure of his or her intentions. You must not overtake the cyclist and then cut in ahead to make your turn. Before you turn left, check your left side exterior mirror for cyclists alongside the car. This is particularly important in slow moving traffic.

As you are slowing down and changing gear, you should still be watching the corner for more information. before you turn you must look as far into the new road as you can, and then decide whether or not it is safe to proceed. Look out for and danger from emerging traffic, or obstructions just around the corner.
Be particularly careful about pedestrians. Pedestrians are very vulnerable at junctions and you will need to anticipate their movements on the assumption that they may not have seen you. Take particular care with infirm, elderly or young people. If the pedestrian has started to cross the road you are entering, you must always give way to them. If the pedestrian hesitates after stepping out onto the road, try and establish eye contact and allow the pedestrian time to decide whether to proceed or wait. DO NOT beckon the pedestrian to cross.

The point of turn is when the front of your car reaches the corner. You must not turn too soon because of the danger that the rear wheels may take a short cut across the kerb. Neither should you swing out just before turning, you could move into the path of a vehicle which has begun to overtake you. Once you have joined the minor road you need to make progress. This means checking your mirrors and the road ahead and acting safely and sensibly on what you see fit in with the new road and traffic conditions.

Turning right
You will be crossing the path of approaching traffic. You will need to decide whether it is safe to proceed or not, which requires sound judgment of the speed and distance of approaching traffic. When crossing the path of other traffic you must not cause vehicles to slow down or swerve to avoid you. If you are in any doubt about whether to proceed it is safest to wait, but as a guide, imagine yourself as a pedestrian waiting to cross the road. If you could walk across, you should be able to drive across safely.

Crossing the path of other traffic, you must take effective observation, looking out for moving and stationary hazards that could hinder your progress before starting the turn. Remember that when you join the new road you can only travel as fast as the vehicle ahead of you. If it is slow moving and very close to the junction you need to ask yourself whether you can get the whole of the car clear of approaching traffic as you turn. Similarly you need to anticipate the actions of pedestrians at the mouth of a junction. Remember that you must give way to pedestrians when turning into a new road. This could be highly dangerous for you, the approaching traffic and the pedestrian.

If you need to stop for approaching traffic, you must keep to your own side of the road. Stop in position so that the front of your car is just before the centre of the road you intend to turn into. Do not proceed until you are sure it is safe. If in doubt about going, be patient and wait. You should not normally give way to traffic emerging to turn right unless you can see good reasons that you will not be able to commence your turn soon. For example, a queue of traffic on the left of the new road.
You should begin turning in good time to avoid the danger of over steering or clipping the kerb in the new road. How soon you being turning will depend on the widths of the roads you are leaving and entering. As a guide, the front of your car should be about level with the centre of the road you are joining before you commence the turn. You must not cut the corner by turning too soon. this would place you dangerously in the path of approaching traffic in the new road. In some situations, a right corner cut is unavoidable because of the angle of the road and obstructions near the mouth of the junction. In these circumstances you need to be absolutely sure there is no danger to traffic on the right hand carriageway of the road you are turning into. If necessary, hold back from the junction so that the traffic emerging right can get clear of your intended path.


If it is safe to proceed at a give way line, drive around the corner. If you are in any doubt about emerging, be patient and wait. You can only do this if your eyes are level with all obstacles at the mouth of the junction. This is the final 'look' position in the MSPSL routine. At give way lines, if you cannot get your eyes level with all obstructions before reaching the end of the road you should stop before the line and then edge out slowly until you can see. If necessary lean forwards so that the front of the car needn't stick out an interfere with the traffic flow.
A good way to remember this is 'peep and creep'.Stop lines are found at places where your vision zone is so limited that the decision had been made for you that you need to stop before the line and then edge out slowly to take effective observation. Before you turn you must look as far into the new road as you can, and then decide whether or not it is safe to proceed. Look out for any danger from approaching traffic or obstructions just around the corner. Be particularly careful about pedestrians.The point of turn is when the front of your car reaches the corner. You must not turn too soon because of the danger that the rear wheels may take a short cut across the kerb. Neither should you swing out just before turning, this could put you into the path of approaching traffic. Try to follow the line of the kerb. You will only be able to do this if you have slowed down enough on approach.

Once you have joined the minor road, you need to make progress. This means checking your mirrors and the road ahead and acting safely and sensibly on what you see to fit in with the new road and traffic conditions.

Emerging From Junctions

Emerging is what we do when we come to the end of a minor road and turn left or right into a major road. As you approach the end of a road, you may see road signs and markings which inform you of the layout of the junction ahead. These may be red-bordered triangular warning signs, road markings or information signs. All are warnings of possible danger ahead and call for good anticipation and forward planning. A Give Way sign is an inverted triangle with the words "Give Way". At marked junctions where you have to give way, you will see a double dashed white line across the left carriageway ahead of you. Before the line, you may also see an inverted white triangle painted on the road, which is advance warning of the give way line. Giving way means that you must give priority to traffic already on the road you intend to enter. However, provided that you can emerge without causing and danger or inconvenience to other road users, you do not have to stop.

A Stop Sign is a red octagonal sign with the word "Stop" in white lettering. It will be accompanied by a solid white stop line across the left carriageway ahead of you and you may see the word "STOP" painted on the road before the stop line. You must always obey the Stop sign, whatever the reason that you cannot decide to go on without first stopping to get a good view of the road you are entering. Unmarked junctions are usually found on the quieter roads and should be treated with special care. The only advance warning you may have of these junctions is traffic crossing or joining your road ahead. Never assume that you have priority at a junction without signs or road markings.

Signal
You must decide whether a signal is necessary and if it is, when you should give it. Unless road markings and signs clearly indicate that you can only turn one way, in a filter lane for example, you should give a signal. Timing the signal is important. if you give your signal too soon, another road user may think you intend to stop or turn into property bordering the road. If there are side roads before the junction at which you will be turning, particularly are in the timing of signals is needed.

Position
You need to make sure you are positioned correctly. For a left turn it may not be necessary to adjust position, since we want to be about a metre from the kerb to take the corner, which is our normal road position. If you do need to change course slightly, first check your exterior mirror in the direction you intend to move. For a right turn you will need to take up a position to the right of the centre line if the road is wide enough, if not you will have to judge your position according to the width of the road.

Speed
Once in position, you will need to adjust your speed. Ease off the gas pedal to begin with, but use the footbrake in good time so that following traffic has enough time to react to your stop light signals. You should not slow down so late that you end up braking as you make the turn, nor must you slow down too soon. Apart from frustrating following drivers, they may be tempted to overtake you, which would be dangerous with a junction ahead.
As you get nearer to the junction, you may need to change gear to give you better control of the car. The speed at which you approach the junction and the gear you select, will depend on what you can see and the angle through which you need to turn. Second gear is the most versatile and may suffice for most junctions, but you may select first gear if the angle of your turn into the new road is very sharp.
Whichever gear you select, remember it is acceptable and just as safe to miss out a gear on approach. You do not need to change through the gears in order. When you have selected a gear, make sure you actually use it! You must not "coast" around the corner with the clutch down. Coasting reduces your control of both braking and steering. When making the turn, the engine should drive your car. This means that you should have enough gas set to be just pulling the car around the corner.


Take particular care with cyclists. If you see a cyclist on approach, hang back until you are sure of his or her intentions. You must not overtake the cyclist and then cut in ahead to make your turn. Before you turn left, check your left side exterior mirror for cyclists alongside the car. This is particularly important in slow moving traffic. As you are slowing down and changing gear, you should still be looking at the junction for more information. On approach to a T-junction, your view of the new road may be restricted by obstacles at the side of the road, such as, parked cars, fences or pedestrians on the footpaths. The view you have into the new road, is your zone of vision.

As you approach the junction, look ahead, at the mouth of the junction and into the main road. Keep scanning right and left as you get nearer to the end of your road and your zone of vision will get wider. It is important that you take effective observation before you emerge. This means assessing the position, speed and likely movements of other road users. When emerging you MUST NOT cause another driver or rider to slow down or swerve to avoid you. Remember that it takes time to complete the manoeuvre of turning left or right. If it is safe to proceed at a give way line, drive around the corner. If you are in any doubt about emerging, be patient and wait.

Look
You can only do this if your eyes are level with all obstacles at the mouth of the junction. This is the final 'look' position in the MSPSL routine. At give way lines, if you cannot get your eyes level with all obstructions before reaching the end of the road, you should stop before the line and then edge out slowly until you can see. If necessary lean forwards, so that the front of the car needn't stick out an interfere with the traffic flow. A good way to remember this is 'peep and creep'.

Stop lines are found at places where your vision zone is so limited, that the decision had been made for you that you need to stop before the line and then edge out slowly to take effective observation. Before you turn, you must look as far into the new road as you can, and then decide whether or not it is safe to proceed. Look out for any danger from approaching traffic, or obstructions just around the corner. Be particularly careful about pedestrians.

Pedestrians are very vulnerable at junctions and you will need to anticipate their movements on the assumption that they may not have seen you. Take particular care with infirm, elderly or young people. If the pedestrian has started to cross the road you are joining, you must always give way to them. If the pedestrian hesitates after stepping onto the road, try and establish eye contact and allow the pedestrian time to decide whether to proceed or wait. DO NOT beckon the pedestrian to cross. The point of turn is when the front of your car reaches the corner. You must not turn too soon because of the danger that the rear wheels may take a short cut across the kerb. Neither should you swing out just before turning, this could put you into the path of approaching traffic. Try to follow the line of the kerb. You will only be able to do this if you have slowed down enough on approach.

Once you have joined the minor road you need to make progress. This means checking your mirrors and the road ahead and acting safely and sensibly on what you see to fit in with the new road and traffic conditions.

Steven....

Crossroads

A crossroads is created when two roads cross paths. The procedure use when emerging from a minor road at a crossroads is the same as that which we use at T-junctions. However, there is the road ahead to consider. So what are the differences?

Check your Mirrors

Decide what Signal is required

Take your Position

Adjust Speed

Select Gear

Look & Decide

On approach Always look well ahead for roadsigns and markings to help you plan your approach. If you are turning left or right, onto the major road, treat it as you would a T-junction but give extra consideration for the minor road opposite.
If you intend to follow the road ahead you should check your interior and right door mirrors for following traffic and those turning right no signal is necessary maintain your normal driving position; reduce speed in good time to give yourself time to assess the junction and select the appropriate gear; remember to include the road ahead in your observations before deciding to proceed.

Assessing priority The yellow car in the road below is signalling to turn right, who has priority?
Turning left (White) When turning left you are not crossing the path of the yellow car. However, the Yellow car does cross your path when turning right. Therefore, the yellow car should give you priority.

Following the road ahead (Red) Again, you are not crossing the path of the yellow car and so the driver should give you priority.

Turning right (Blue) In this situation, you are crossing each others path and neither of you has priority. You should try to make eye contact with the other driver to help confirm who will give priority. Try to read the 'body language' of the driver and vehicle. If the driver is not looking at you, he/she may not be aware of your presence. Is the vehicle starting to move or turn? If so, this means the driver is probably taking priority and it is safer to let him/her proceed.

Steven...

Changing Gear

Gear changing is probably one of the most important skills any new driver should develop as it not only allows the driver to move the vehicle from a standing start but also gives the driver the power to build up their speed by working through the appropriate gears. Gear changing is a very physical skill requiring good coordination between the

Hands
Feet
Eyes
Ears

Lets take a look at a typical gear lever and see how the gears are laid out. It is important when driving that you do not look down at the gear stick when changing gear, although some drivers find this difficult at first it doesn't take long to achieve. You can practice gear changes sitting in the car with the engine switched off and the clutch pressed down. If you do have difficulty mastering the gears there is always the option of driving an automatic car, the downside of this is of course that after passing your test you will be restricted to using automatic cars only.

This particular gear lever has five forward gears and one reverse gear. Some of the older vehicles will only have four gears while some top of the range vehicles may have six or more gears. The layout of different gear levers may vary. It doesn't matter how the gear lever is laid out the gears will work in exactly the same way. In most vehicles the first 4 gears form an 'H' appearance on the gear lever. Neutral is the middle line in the 'H' formation on the gear stick. The gears run from left to right of the 'H', top left being first gear through to bottom right being 4th gear. Most cars now have a fifth gear which is located on the far top-right of the gear lever (to the right of the 'H').

To engage reverse gear you sometimes have to either push the gear lever down or lift it up towards you. Different vehicles have different setups. So always check were reverse is on a new vehicle.

1st Gear is used for moving off, manoeuvering and for creeping slowly in traffic and at junctions.

2nd Gear is used for moving off down very steep hills, building up speed after moving away and driving at low speeds.

3rd Gear is used to build up speed and when you need more power for climbing hills. It also increases your control when going down steep hills and dealing with some bends.

4th Gear is used for driving at speeds generally higher than 30 mph, where there are no hazards to confront.

5th Gear not all vehicles have a 5th gear. which gives better fuel economy. This is normally only used on open roads when travelling constantly at higher speeds.

When to Change Gear.

Following on from the Moving Off tutorial, once we have the vehicle moving we then need to change gear as first gear will only take you so far. This is where our eyesight and hearing come into play. Remembering that first gear is only used to move off from a standing start, we should start to hear the engine getting progressively louder as the gear comes to the end of its usefulness.

This is a good guide for your next gear change, which would be second gear. By listening to the engine note, (2K REVS) you can judge when the vehicle requires a gear change. As the engine gets louder, change gear. If you are deaf or have impaired hearing you could use the following table as a guideline.

First Gear .....0 - 10 MPH*

Second Gear .....10 - 20 mph.*
Third Gear .....20 - 30 MPH.*
Fourth Gear .....30 - 40 MPH.*
Fifth Gear .....40 - 70 MPH.*

* MPH - Miles Per Hour

(The table should be seen as a general guide, as larger vehicles will allow the vehicle to travel at higher speeds before requiring a gear change.)

Using the Gear Lever
So we've got our guideline for changing gear, how do we actually use the gear lever? When the gear lever is in the neutral position the lever normally positions its self below third gear.

Selecting First & Second Gears
Because the gear lever rests below third gear the driver has to push over and up to select first gear or over and down to select second gear. This is necessary because the gear lever is sprung loaded, which enables it to return to its resting position below third. The correct way to select first or second gear is to use the "palming method".

The Palming Method
By using this method you eliminate the risk of your hand slipping off the gear lever or selecting the wrong gear.

As we can see in the diagram the position of the hand will make it easier to select the first and second gears as I will be pushing against the sprung loaded lever.

Selecting Third Gear

Because the gear lever is sprung loaded and will always centralize below third gear, simply reverse your grip on the lever and let the gear lever spring back to its resting position and then push up, which will select third gear. Let the gear lever do some of the work when selecting the higher gears.

Selecting Fourth Gear
Using the same grip on the gear lever simply pull down on the gear lever as far as it will go and this should ensure that fourth gear has been selected.

Selecting Fifth Gear
To select fifth from fourth gear simply push the lever up and horizontal towards the steering wheel until it will not go any further and then push up.

Never try to rush or force your gear changes as this will probably result in a missed gear change. If you've got to rush something when you're driving, you're doing it wrong. Take your time.

Follow these simple steps for a successful gear change.
You've moved off from a standing start using first gear. Listening to the engine or watching the speedometer you decide to change into second gear. Allow your right foot to come off the gas pedal and then press the clutch pedal to the floor. Using the palming method, palm and knuckles facing away from the steering wheel, select second gear. Ensure you apply enough pressure on the gear lever as you pull down. This will stop it springing back to its resting position below third gear. Once you're happy that second gear has been selected, bring the clutch pedal up slowly and apply a little pressure to the gas pedal. The secret to smooth gear changes is to bring your clutch pedal up slowly as this allows the clutch plates to come together gently. . Repeat the above procedure when selecting the higher gears. Remembering to change your grip on the gear lever, so your palm and knuckles are facing the steering wheel. Never rush a gear change!

About Block Gear Changes

Some drivers have a habit of always changing through the gears one-by-one (1,2,3,4,5 -
5,4,3,2,1). This habit has stuck with some older drivers from when they originally learned to drive many years ago. Today, in a normal car and for everyday on-road driving, it is not generally good practice to use the gears in this way. We can change down the gears in blocks ( 5th to 2nd or 4th to 2nd. etc). Over the years, motor car design and engineering has improved. Compared with cars of even ten years ago, modern cars are lighter, more powerful and more aerodynamic.

These changes mean that the driving method that was essential in older cars is no longer needed in modern driving. It is not necessary to change gears in sequence. For example, if you are driving along at 50 mph in 5th gear and you want to turn left into a side road, you may be able to do so without having to stop.

As you approach the junction, you need to reduce your speed ( using your brake) until you are going slowly enough to take the junction safely.When you have slowed down to a safe speed using the brakes, you have to select a gear that will drive the car comfortably at that speed. In most cars the best gear for the job will be 2nd. So, move the gear lever directly to the second gear position skipping the other gears.

The benefits of this style of driving include better fuel economy, less overall wear and tear, less driver fatigue on long journeys and more steering control in emergencies.To practice changing up through the gears on the road, first find a fairly straight, wide road where there is little or no other traffic. Move off in first gear and change into 2nd gear as soon as you can. Accelerate to about 15-20 mph, then change into 3rd gear. Accelerate in 3rd to 25-30 mph and then change into 4th. You will only need to practise using the 5th gear when you are competent using the first 4 gears.

To Practise - change down through the gears. When you have built up your speed to 30 mph and you are in 4th gear, check the mirror to make sure it is safe. Brake gently to slow the car down to about 20 mph. Release the brake and change into 3rd gear. Check the mirror again and, if safe, reapply the brake gently and slow down to about 10 mph. Release the brake and change into 2nd gear. Check the mirror, if safe, build up your speed, changing up the gears, until you reach 30 mph again. Keep practising until you feel confident.

Steven

Steering

The steering wheel is used to control the direction of the car by turning the front wheels. Imagine the wheel as a clock face. You should hold the steering wheel lightly but firmly with your hands in the "ten-to-two" or "quarter-to-three" position.

NEVER take both hands from the wheel whilst the vehicle is moving. It is important when driving that you have both hands on the steering wheel, you will have to take one hand off on occasions, for example when changing gear, operating the lights, wipers and other controls, but as soon as you have done that your hand should return to the wheel. When practising, find a straight, quiet road where you can steer with one hand while you practise using the controls.

To steer a straight course, look well ahead. To turn the car you should use the "Pull - Push" technique. This means feeding the rim of the steering wheel through your hands, so that one hand is always gripping the wheel. For example, to turn right, move your right hand to the top of the wheel but not beyond the 12 o'clock position. Pull the wheel downwards with your right hand and at the same time slide your left hand down the rim so that both hands end up at the same height. Then, change the grip to your left hand and push the wheel further round, at the same time allowing your right hand to slide up the rim of the wheel.

You may need to repeat these steps, according to the angle through which the front wheels need to turn. This angle is known as the steering lock. To turn the wheel back again, or to turn left, use the same procedure, but the left hand goes to the top of the wheel first. You should not let the wheel slip back through your hands after a turn as this lessens your control of the car.

You can vary your hand movements according to the amount of lock you need. You should avoid crossing your hands on the wheel and steering when the car is stationary.