Showing posts with label Driving test.. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Driving test.. Show all posts

Friday, 2 December 2011

Left Reverse Around A Corner

What the driving test (dsa) requires:

You should be able to reverse your car...

Smoothly

Correctly

Safely

Under full control

With due regard for all other road users

How the examiner will test you:

Your examiner will normally

ask you to pull up just before a side road on the left
point out the side road and ask you to reverse into it
As you drive past the selected side road, check for any obstructions or children playing that could make your manoeuvre unsafe. Also look to see how sharp the corner you will be reversing around is.

Using MSM drive past the corner and stop about 2 car lengths from it and about a foot from the kerb. The sharper the corner the further out you will need to be. Apply the handbrake and select neutral. Make sure if you needed to signal to pull in you do so as you drive past the corner, otherwise, signal too early and other road users could become confused and think you are turning in.

Turn slightly in your seat to make control easier, you may remove your seatbelt if you feel restricted but you must remember to put it back on before you drive off!

Assess the position of your vehicle in relation to the kerb through the rear window. This is the approximate position you need to end up with when you have finished reversing.

Select reverse gear, set the gas to a steady hum then bring the clutch pedal to biting point and check all around. Keep the clutch pedal at, or near the biting point for the duration of the manoeuvre depending on the incline of the road. Keep the vehicle moving slowly by making proper use of the clutch brake and accelerator pedal. The combination of the controls will depends on the slope of the road if any.

You must be looking out of the rear window as you take the handbrake off. (Having done all round observations) Begin moving slowly back until the rear wheels are level with the corner. You can use quick glances in the nearside door mirror to check on your position throughout the manoeuvre.

At this point pause for a moment to have a good look around for other road users as the front of your car is about to swing out into the road, at this point you will present the greatest hazard to others. So ensure you check your right blindspot lastly before you move again to start the turn. Wait until you will not cause other road users to slow down, stop or swerve before you complete your turn around the corner itself.

As a general guide you should be able to follow the kerb as it disappears from view in the back window and reappears in the side window. The amount of steering required will depends on how sharp the corner is Generally ¾ of a turn to one turn on the wheel should suffice.

If your manoeuvre is going to affect other road users remember they have priority. Let them make the decision to proceed or wait for you to complete your manoeuvre if they are appearing behind you as you reverse into the junction. Do not panic and put the car into first trying to rush around the corner again and out of the way. The other road user may pull around you and use the junction so wait until their intention is clear before you proceed to either wait for them to go around you, if they wait behind you there may be little choice other than to go back round to your starting position.

Keep checking all around as you complete the manoeuvre, keep steering to the left until you see that the car is straight in the new road. Keep looking well down the road through the middle of the rear window. This will help you judge whether the car is parellel with the kerb. Glance in your nearside door mirror before you stop to check you are happy with your finish position.

Make sure you finish your reverse in a safe place about 2 to 3 car lengths from the junction to allow other road users to use it safely.

Remember:
Keep on the lookout all the time for other road users particularly pedestrians about to cross behind your car and vehicles approaching from any direction. If a pedestrian is walking near the junction stop and wait for them to reach safety on the other side before you continue moving.

Faults to avoid:

You shouldn’t...

mount the kerb
swing out wide
reverse too far from the kerb
be inconsiderate to other road users
take more than a reasonable time to complete the manoeuvre, creating a hazard for other road users
steer harshly while the car is stationary

Wednesday, 26 October 2011

Changing Gear

Gear changing is probably one of the most important skills any new driver should develop as it not only allows the driver to move the vehicle from a standing start but also gives the driver the power to build up their speed by working through the appropriate gears. Gear changing is a very physical skill requiring good coordination between the

Hands
Feet
Eyes
Ears

Lets take a look at a typical gear lever and see how the gears are laid out. It is important when driving that you do not look down at the gear stick when changing gear, although some drivers find this difficult at first it doesn't take long to achieve. You can practice gear changes sitting in the car with the engine switched off and the clutch pressed down. If you do have difficulty mastering the gears there is always the option of driving an automatic car, the downside of this is of course that after passing your test you will be restricted to using automatic cars only.


This particular gear lever has five forward gears and one reverse gear. Some of the older vehicles will only have four gears while some top of the range vehicles may have six or more gears. The layout of different gear levers may vary. It doesn't matter how the gear lever is laid out the gears will work in exactly the same way. In most vehicles the first 4 gears form an 'H' appearance on the gear lever. Neutral is the middle line in the 'H' formation on the gear stick. The gears run from left to right of the 'H', top left being first gear through to bottom right being 4th gear. Most cars now have a fifth gear which is located on the far top-right of the gear lever (to the right of the 'H').
To engage reverse gear you sometimes have to either push the gear lever down or lift it up towards you. Different vehicles have different setups. So always check were reverse is on a new vehicle.

1st Gear is used for moving off, manoeuvering and for creeping slowly in traffic and at junctions.

2nd Gear is used for moving off down very steep hills, building up speed after moving away and driving at low speeds.

3rd Gear is used to build up speed and when you need more power for climbing hills. It also increases your control when going down steep hills and dealing with some bends.

4th Gear is used for driving at speeds generally higher than 30 mph, where there are no hazards to confront.

5th Gear not all vehicles have a 5th gear. which gives better fuel economy. This is normally only used on open roads when travelling constantly at higher speeds.


When to Change Gear.
Following on from the Moving Off tutorial, once we have the vehicle moving we then need to change gear as first gear will only take you so far. This is where our eyesight and hearing come into play. Remembering that first gear is only used to move off from a standing start, we should start to hear the engine getting progressively louder as the gear comes to the end of its usefulness.

This is a good guide for your next gear change, which would be second gear. By listening to the engine note, (2K REVS) you can judge when the vehicle requires a gear change. As the engine gets louder, change gear. If you are deaf or have impaired hearing you could use the following table as a guideline.

First Gear .....0 - 10 MPH*
Second Gear .....10 - 20 mph.*
Third Gear .....20 - 30 MPH.*
Fourth Gear .....30 - 40 MPH.*
Fifth Gear .....40 - 70 MPH.*

* MPH - Miles Per Hour

(The table should be seen as a general guide, as larger vehicles will allow the vehicle to travel at higher speeds before requiring a gear change.)

Using the Gear Lever
So we've got our guideline for changing gear, how do we actually use the gear lever? When the gear lever is in the neutral position the lever normally positions its self below third gear.


Selecting First & Second Gears
Because the gear lever rests below third gear the driver has to push over and up to select first gear or over and down to select second gear. This is necessary because the gear lever is sprung loaded, which enables it to return to its resting position below third. The correct way to select first or second gear is to use the "palming method".

The Palming Method
By using this method you eliminate the risk of your hand slipping off the gear lever or selecting the wrong gear.



As we can see in the diagram the position of the hand will make it easier to select the first and second gears as I will be pushing against the sprung loaded lever.

Selecting Third Gear



Because the gear lever is sprung loaded and will always centralize below third gear, simply reverse your grip on the lever and let the gear lever spring back to its resting position and then push up, which will select third gear. Let the gear lever do some of the work when selecting the higher gears.

Selecting Fourth Gear
Using the same grip on the gear lever simply pull down on the gear lever as far as it will go and this should ensure that fourth gear has been selected.

Selecting Fifth Gear
To select fifth from fourth gear simply push the lever up and horizontal towards the steering wheel until it will not go any further and then push up.



Never try to rush or force your gear changes as this will probably result in a missed gear change. If you've got to rush something when you're driving, you're doing it wrong. Take your time.

Follow these simple steps for a successful gear change.
You've moved off from a standing start using first gear. Listening to the engine or watching the speedometer you decide to change into second gear. Allow your right foot to come off the gas pedal and then press the clutch pedal to the floor. Using the palming method, palm and knuckles facing away from the steering wheel, select second gear. Ensure you apply enough pressure on the gear lever as you pull down. This will stop it springing back to its resting position below third gear. Once you're happy that second gear has been selected, bring the clutch pedal up slowly and apply a little pressure to the gas pedal. The secret to smooth gear changes is to bring your clutch pedal up slowly as this allows the clutch plates to come together gently. . Repeat the above procedure when selecting the higher gears. Remembering to change your grip on the gear lever, so your palm and knuckles are facing the steering wheel. Never rush a gear change!

About Block Gear Changes

Some drivers have a habit of always changing through the gears one-by-one (1,2,3,4,5 -
5,4,3,2,1). This habit has stuck with some older drivers from when they originally learned to drive many years ago. Today, in a normal car and for everyday on-road driving, it is not generally good practice to use the gears in this way. We can change down the gears in blocks ( 5th to 2nd or 4th to 2nd. etc). Over the years, motor car design and engineering has improved. Compared with cars of even ten years ago, modern cars are lighter, more powerful and more aerodynamic.

These changes mean that the driving method that was essential in older cars is no longer needed in modern driving. It is not necessary to change gears in sequence. For example, if you are driving along at 50 mph in 5th gear and you want to turn left into a side road, you may be able to do so without having to stop.

As you approach the junction, you need to reduce your speed ( using your brake) until you are going slowly enough to take the junction safely.When you have slowed down to a safe speed using the brakes, you have to select a gear that will drive the car comfortably at that speed. In most cars the best gear for the job will be 2nd. So, move the gear lever directly to the second gear position skipping the other gears.

The benefits of this style of driving include better fuel economy, less overall wear and tear, less driver fatigue on long journeys and more steering control in emergencies.To practice changing up through the gears on the road, first find a fairly straight, wide road where there is little or no other traffic. Move off in first gear and change into 2nd gear as soon as you can. Accelerate to about 15-20 mph, then change into 3rd gear. Accelerate in 3rd to 25-30 mph and then change into 4th. You will only need to practise using the 5th gear when you are competent using the first 4 gears.

To Practise - change down through the gears. When you have built up your speed to 30 mph and you are in 4th gear, check the mirror to make sure it is safe. Brake gently to slow the car down to about 20 mph. Release the brake and change into 3rd gear. Check the mirror again and, if safe, reapply the brake gently and slow down to about 10 mph. Release the brake and change into 2nd gear. Check the mirror, if safe, build up your speed, changing up the gears, until you reach 30 mph again. Keep practising until you feel confident.

Steven

Steering

The steering wheel is used to control the direction of the car by turning the front wheels. Imagine the wheel as a clock face. You should hold the steering wheel lightly but firmly with your hands in the "ten-to-two" or "quarter-to-three" position.

NEVER take both hands from the wheel whilst the vehicle is moving. It is important when driving that you have both hands on the steering wheel, you will have to take one hand off on occasions, for example when changing gear, operating the lights, wipers and other controls, but as soon as you have done that your hand should return to the wheel. When practising, find a straight, quiet road where you can steer with one hand while you practise using the controls.

To steer a straight course, look well ahead. To turn the car you should use the "Pull - Push" technique. This means feeding the rim of the steering wheel through your hands, so that one hand is always gripping the wheel. For example, to turn right, move your right hand to the top of the wheel but not beyond the 12 o'clock position. Pull the wheel downwards with your right hand and at the same time slide your left hand down the rim so that both hands end up at the same height. Then, change the grip to your left hand and push the wheel further round, at the same time allowing your right hand to slide up the rim of the wheel.

You may need to repeat these steps, according to the angle through which the front wheels need to turn. This angle is known as the steering lock. To turn the wheel back again, or to turn left, use the same procedure, but the left hand goes to the top of the wheel first. You should not let the wheel slip back through your hands after a turn as this lessens your control of the car.


You can vary your hand movements according to the amount of lock you need. You should avoid crossing your hands on the wheel and steering when the car is stationary.

Moving Off, Stoppoing.

Once you know the controls of the car, you need to know how to use them altogether to get the car moving. For some people, the biggest nightmare is that you might kangaroo-hop down the road.
With a good Instructor you will be able to move the car smoothly, even at the first attempt. The important thing is that you move away without endangering other road users.

Always remember the MSM routine.

M - Mirror

S - Signal

M - Manoeuvre

Here is an example picture of the area of road what you can see when inside of the car while looking through the mirrors.

The area behind not covered by the mirrors are called blind spots.


So from that example we can now see why it is important to use the Mirror Signal Manoeuvre routine.

Once you have the car prepared using the DSSSM routine, you need to look for a safe gap.

This means a gap that is big enough for you to pull into without causing any other road user to slow down, swerve or stop.

Do this by looking into your mirrors and by checking your blind spots by physically turning your head making sure that the road behind is clear for you to move away.

Remember your not only looking out for other vehicles but also cyclists or pedestrians.

This is all part of the MSM routine.

The manoeuvre part is any change if direction or change of speed. Give a signal if it would help another road user. Before you move make sure you have a final check all around, including the blind spots to ensure that it is still safe to move.


Once it is safe, you need to know how to move away under control. You need to be able to do this on a level road, on a gradient and moving off at an angle.

Level Road

Clutch down and Select first gear









Press your foot gently on the accelerator pedal.










Let the clutch up slowly to the biting point (all around car checks) Once safe, Release the handbrake.






Let the car creep forwards then Let the clutch up smoothly and all the way Steer to a normal driving position generally a metre from the kerb.

Gradient Uphill Road
Clutch down and Select first gear.
Press your foot gently on the accelerator pedal Let the clutch up slowly to the biting point.
Press down the accelerator pedal a bit harder.
(you're on a hill so the engine has more work to do) .
Don't forget all around car checks.
Once safe, Release the handbrake and let the car creep forwards.

Gradient Downhill Road
Clutch down and Select first gear, if the hill is very steep use second gear Apply the footbrake.
All around car checks.
Once safe, Release the handbrake Release the footbrake slowly, and as the car starts moving forwards,release the clutch smoothly then fully and press the accelerator gently.

Moving off at an angle
This procedure is similar to pulling away in a straight line and/or a gradient road. Only you need to give yourself more time to look around and make sure it is safe to fully move away.

You do this by using clutch control. Once at the biting point, and you have let your clutch up to make the car move you can control movement of the car going forwards by slight pressure back down on the clutch. Easing the clutch back up fractionally will move the car again.

STOPPING

The procedure for pulling in at the side of the road is quite easy with a little practice. Follow these simple steps and you can't go wrong.

Mirror.
Check your main mirror and your near side (passenger) door mirror. You never know, there maybe a motorcyclist or cyclist following close behind. By checking your door mirror, you will know what is happening near to the kerb.

Signal.
If there is a vehicle following you, or other road users ahead of you then signal left. Coupled with your brake lights, this will warn the driver that you intend to pull in shortly. However, if there is a junction on the left before your intended parking spot, be careful about the timing of the left signal. Signaling too early could suggest that you intend to turn left into the side road. If a there is a pedestrian standing where you would like to pull in, a signal will also benefit them. If there's no one to benefit from a signal, then don't signal.

Position.
Gently guide the vehicle towards the near side (left) kerb, so the vehicle is about 6 -12 inches from the kerb when the vehicle comes to rest. It's not advisable to get within inches of the kerb when you pull in, as the gutters tend to collect a lot of rubbish like glass, nails and so on, which could damage your tyres.

Speed.
Ease your right foot off the gas pedal and swing your foot to the brake and apply gentle, firm and consistent pressure to the footbrake. This will bring the vehicle under control. Always start your braking early and gentle, never late and heavy as this could cause the wheels to lock up and may result in the vehicle skidding.

Look.
Pick a convenient place to pull in. Never park near to or block the following:
Driveways.
Bus stops.
On the brow of a hill.
On a bend.
Double yellow lines.
Zig zag lines on a pedestrian crossing.


Assess
Assess whether it's safe and convenient to pull in or not.

Decide.
Base your decision on what you see. As the car comes to a halt, press the clutch pedal to the floor with your left foot and as the vehicle comes to rest slightly, release the pressure from the footbrake. This will allow the vehicle to come to a nice gentle halt. Pressing the clutch pedal to the floor will part the clutch plates, as we no longer require the power from the engine. Never put the clutch pedal down before the footbrake, as this would be coasting or free wheeling. Brake first then press the clutch pedal to the floor.

Coasting
Coasting occurs when the vehicle is moving, but either the: Clutch pedal being held down, or the gear lever is in the neutral position.

Coasting is wrong and potentially dangerous because it reduces the driver's control over the vehicle. Steering and braking are the main casualties when coasting takes place. Another important factor when the car is coasting, it may be difficult to select a gear if something did happen unexpectedly. If the vehicle is traveling down hill and coasting at the same time, the vehicle will pick up speed.

Once the vehicle has come to a complete halt, apply the handbrake and move the gear lever into the neutral position. Applying the handbrake first ensures the vehicle is secure.

Clutch & Gears

The first thing to remember when you first come into contact with the clutch pedal and gear lever is that they both depend upon each other. One without the other and nothing will happen.

Clutch Pedal Location

Of the three pedals, the clutch pedal is the pedal on the far left and is the only pedal your left foot will operate.

In the driving instruction industry we call the accelerator pedal the "gas" pedal, which is positioned on the far right of the three pedals. That leaves the centre pedal, which is the footbrake.

How the Clutch Works
The clutch is basically a means of transferring the power from the engine to the drive wheels via the gear box. That's fine but what does it mean? Well if we look at the diagram we can get a simplified overview of the clutch and how it works.



Looking at the diagram we can see at the front of the vehicle there is an engine. Attached to the engine is a shaft and on the end of the shaft there is a wheel, called a "fly wheel". When the engine is running the fly wheel will spin because the shaft is spinning. Opposite the fly wheel is another wheel called the "clutch plate" and this is attached to another shaft which runs through the gear box to the drive wheels at the rear of the vehicle. Both plates are about the size of dinner plate. When the clutch pedal is pressed to the floor the two plates are apart. However, when you select a gear, 1st for example, and bring the clutch pedal up slowly, the two plates come together and when they meet this is known as the biting point. By doing so you have now transferred the power from the engine to the drive wheels via the spinning plates. The secret to good clutch control is to bring the clutch pedal up slowly and this will allow the two plates to come together smoothly. In fact, when you feel the two plates come together, hold the clutch still for a second or two and this will give you a seamless pull away.



GEARS:



As mentioned earlier, the gear lever works in conjunction with the clutch pedal. The function of the gears is to allow you to pull away and then build up your speed, depending upon your road and conditions. Most modern vehicles will have five gears. However, some of the older vehicles will only have four gears. Some cars, now provide vehicles with six or more gears. The picture illustrates a five gear setup. Different makes of vehicles could have a different setup from this but the gears will work in exactly the same way



How the Gears Work
First Gear is the strongest forward gear and is used to get the shear weight of the vehicle moving. Remember you are sitting in a vehicle that could weigh in excess of 1 ton, so you'll need a very strong gear to get that dead weight moving.

Second Gear
Once you've built some speed up move into second gear. Not as strong as first gear but able to move faster.

Third Gear
Very similar to the second gear in that the gear allows the vehicle to travel faster but the gear is not as strong as second gear.

Fourth and Fifth Gears
Fourth and fifth are cruising or economy gears. Once you've reached your desired speed or the maximum speed limit, select one of the cruising gears. As you move up the gears they get weaker but the vehicle will travel faster. The horizontal position for the gear lever is called neutral. There will be no gear selected when the gear lever is in this position.

Safety Tip
Before starting your engine ensure that the handbrake is on and the gear lever is in the neutral position.